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PowWow in Cody

This weekend is the Powwow at the Buffalo Bill Historical Center in Cody.  It was my first powwow, if you don’t count the one I stumbled upon when I was 17 in Montana, and it was great fun.  All the colorful costumes, dancers from old to young in all different categories of dance, from fancy to traditional, competing.  I had no idea what a powwow was.  It is like a gathering of family, friends, and different tribes, dancing and having fun.  We should all dance more.

Here are a few highlight photos.

Dancer in preparation

Costumed dancers

Moccasins

Wildflowers, Geology, and the Chugwater formation

More wildflowers.  Its so green here, everywhere.  Won’t last long, this is the West you know.  I took a hike in the Clark’s Fork basin area where the beautiful Chugwater formation of red sandstone juts angled out from the surrounding ground.  This is the remnants of an ancient sea.  Fossils can be found embedded in the stone.  At  the Lake where the hike begins, an entry in the log states “Went hiking in the best geological area in the U.S.”.  He noted that he was there for 12 hours!

A few flowers and highlights:

Chugwater sandstone

Chugwater sandstone

Calochortus nuttallii - edible bulb, but do not eat as that kills the plant

Calochortus nuttallii - edible bulb, but do not eat as that kills the plant

Gaillardia aristata - cultivated perennial.  I am pretty sure the I.D. is correct.  Sunflower family is large.

Gaillardia aristata - cultivated perennial. I am pretty sure the I.D. is correct. Sunflower family is large.

Prickly Pear cactus flower

Prickly Pear cactus flower

Potentilla fruticosa.  The new name is Pentaphylloides floribunda.  This is a landscape plant and I prefer the old name!

Potentilla fruticosa. The new name is Pentaphylloides floribunda. I prefer the old name.

Nature landscapes the best!

Nature landscapes the best!

Sphaeralcea coccinea; Malvaceae family.  I have still not been able to pronounce this name

Sphaeralcea coccinea; Malvaceae family. I have still not been able to pronounce this name

Springtime bloom after the Gunbarrel fire

The burn from last summer

The burn from last summer

It was interesting to see the burn area from last summer.  I wanted to see the new growth and what wildflowers I might find.  Burns are important to the west.  Many species of trees, shrubs and flowers will only sprout after a burn.  Some plant’s seeds can lie dormant for years waiting for the heat of a burn to open them up.

The Gunbarrel fire from last summer was hot and widespread.  It burned for months.  Here are some wildflowers that I saw yesterday growing out of the scree areas on the hillsides.  Native grasses were abundant.  Evidence of elk and deer was everywhere.  A grizz had recently walked through the unburnt area next to the river.

Many of the wildflowers, some not shown here, were in the pea family.  All members of the Pea family (Fabaceae) fix nitrogen in the soil.  These kinds of plants and shrubs, like Ceanothus which also fixes nitrogen and comes up after a burn, pave the way and amend the burned soil for successive plants.

I’m still learning my local wildflowers, but lucky for me I’ve found that I can recognize many plants by at least family or Genus based on experience with similar flowers.  I haven’t identified all species so feel free to chime in with correct I.D.

Phacelia sericea

Phacelia sericea

Pea family.  An astragalus

Pea family. An astragalus

Pea family-Lupine

Pea family-Lupinus argenteus

Penstemon eriantherus

Penstemon eriantherus with catepillar

Cryptantha  Borage family

Cryptantha Borage family

Unidentified

Unidentified

Mimulus guttatus

Mimulus guttatus

Fire and water.  The West IS fire.

Fire and water. The West IS fire.

GYC annual meeting in Jackson

I just returned from Jackson for the annual Greater Yellowstone Coalition meeting.  The convention was at the plush Jackson Lake Lodge.  The lodge lobby sits in Grand Teton National Park overlooking a large wetland where elk are calving, moose are bedding, and grizzlies are eating.  There’s something wonderful and strange about viewing all the wildlife activity from the comforts of the heated lobby.  Of course, you can also go out on the balcony, but if its raining, as it frequently was, I almost felt guilty being so comfortable inside looking out.

View from Jackson Lake lodge

View from Jackson Lake lodge

The Greater Yellowstone Coalition is such a great conservation group.  It’s an organization working within the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem to solve wildlife/human conflicts.  Its works on issues as diverse as legislation to preserve prime habitat areas to preventing oil and gas leases.  There is a level head to the organization as it attempts to throw out a wider community net and partner groups that might not have otherwise come together.

The annual meeting was fabulous.   This is my third one in four years, and I think it was the best.  Some highlights:  Alexandria Fuller, the keynote speaker, who was charasmatic, witty, and very funny.  She had the crowd laughing over stories from her hometown in Africa and then crying when she discussed her new book about a young man killed in the oil fields because of poor safety procedures.

The other two highlights for me were on Saturday morning.  Kevin Hurley of Wyoming Game and Fish led a round table discussion I joined on Open Grazing on public lands.  His focus was the plight of the bighorn sheep in Idaho.  Afterwards he gave a presentation on the Bighorn Sheep migration around where I live on the Beartooth front.  Just in the last few years, after doing some collaring, they’ve discovered the migration of the bighorns, which follows a peculiar and ancient arc pattern.

Geoffrey O’Gara of Wyoming Public Television followed with a fantastic preview of a new PBS documentary he’s working on about the pronghorn migration and the push to preserve land along their route.  The documentary will raise critical awareness of this pressing issue.

I highly recommend that anyone going to the Tetons take the time to stop and visit the newly opened Laurance Rockefeller Preserve. Donated in 2001, but just opened to the public last year, this was the private residence of the Rockefellers and one of the most pristine places easily accessible by car.  Take the time to walk to the lake.  Laurance used to have his guests park in the parking area and walk the mile and a half to get to the residence by the lake.  That way they’d leave their worries at the gate and begin to experience the wonders of this natural place.

Here is a photo I took of mama moose nursing her calf along the trail to Phelps Lake at the Rockefeller Preserve.

Mama moose nursing calf

Mama moose nursing calf

Mama moose nuzzles her calf

Mama moose nuzzles her calf

Phelps Lake at the Preserve.  Fabulous!

Phelps Lake at the Preserve. Fabulous!

California gardens are only a Slice of Paradise

The formality of 17th and 18th century European gardens is a reflection of people’s desire to control their environment and the natural forces around them.  They were still surrounded by wildness.  The comfort of a garden with lines, hedges, and geometric shapes was their safety.

Today people yearn for the natural.  We are surrounded by non-nature, non-wildness.  We all want contact with what we cannot control.

That is why my clients, as a general rule, all say they want a ‘natural’ looking garden.

Having lived in northern California for so long, gardening was my salvation.  I spent my childhood summers in the San Bernadino mountains and backpacked the Sierras and Rockies in my teens.  I always yearned for that feeling of being ‘lost in nature’.  I understood my clients deepest longings.

This week visiting some clients and potential clients, I was pleasantly surprised with some of my installations from last spring.  As a general rule, I need to wait at least 3 seasons to take photos.  But here are a few photos from last years installations with comments below.  Besides, I bought a Nikon P90 and I’m loving it and excited to post some of the photos.  Its really lightweight too so I can carry it in my daypack.

For more information on how you can design your own dream garden see my ebook on Design.

This yard began as a flat rectangle.

This yard began as a flat rectangle.

This is a gravel garden.  See Beth Chatto's gravel garden.  Arbor/fence existing

This is a gravel garden. See Beth Chatto’s book on gravel gardens. Arbor/fence existing

Very small patio with grand view

Very small patio with grand view

Decomposed Granite sunken patio edged with stone and Ryerson's header.

Decomposed Granite sunken patio edged with stone and Ryerson’s header.

Decomposed granite patio using a creative mix of fines to achieve our color

Decomposed granite patio using a creative mix of fines to achieve our color

Decomposed Granite patio with Lots of natives with view

Decomposed Granite patio with Lots of natives with view

Decomposed granite patio with flagstone shower

Decomposed granite patio with flagstone shower

The view from all patios.  These are drought tolerant plants, mostly natives, on an Oak woodland interface

Decomposed Granite steps with headers. The view from all patios. These are drought tolerant plants, mostly natives, on an Oak woodland interface

This is a different property with a great view of SF bay

This is a different property with a great view of SF bay

Plants as Sculpture.  Each pot has a different architectural plant

Plants as Sculpture. Each pot has a different architectural plant

New plantings, the owner choose the chess set.

New plantings, the owner choose the chess set.

Except the small lawn, the beds are all low water, mostly succulents/natives

Except the small lawn, the beds are all low water, mostly succulents/natives

Coyote the trickster and the real world

Coyote, the trickster.

I am staying in the Bay Area this week, seeing friends, contacting clients. Last January I was here for a month working on a job, staying at Muir Beach, when I had the most unusual coyote experience.

Our house was directly above the beach, with a private walkway down to the Muir Beach parking area. On evening around 5pm, as dusk was settling in, Koda and I walked down the access steps to the beach. On one side of us was a house, on the other side of the walkway was brush and an open lot. Suddenly Koda perked up and started to bolt. I called him and saw a huge German Shephard-looking coyote, probably a coydog.  He’d been watching us.  Being curious why he was so close to these homes, I followed him through the brush.  Right next to the compost bin was a fresh deer kill.  The deer was completely intact except for its hind quarters, which were exposed and Coyote had eaten the entrails out.

The next morning, around 8am, I passed the area on the way to the beach and looked through the brush.  Within those 14 hours, that deer was not only entirely consumed, but the vultures had picked it clean to just bones.  Nothing remained!

That was my last trip.  Yesterday I met a friend for lunch in a busy North Bay town called San Rafael.  After lunch we decided to take a walk, so we drove to a quiet spot I know.  At the end of a road there’s an old cemetery.  We strolled around the manicured grounds when I noticed a coyote luxuriating in the wet, green grass.  Coyote lounged, scratched, bit his fleas, rolled around, and paid us little mind.   We circled around him, passing closer on the way back.  He stood up in a leisurely fashion, eyed us (like ‘oh you humans are disturbing my sleep’), scratched, and walked slowly around a Chinese Elm.  There must have been a nest in that tree, because birds kept dive-bombing him.  Coyote jumped in surprise as if these birds were biting flies.  It was the funniest thing.

Coyote lounging in cemetery

Coyote lounging in cemetery

Coyote the Trickster

Coyote the Trickster

My friend and I parted.  I went to get a haircut.  At the hairdresser’s the woman next to me was talking about teaching a third grade class when suddenly all the children ran to the window to see a coyote walking by.  “I’ve never seen a coyote.  Ever.” she said.

Each time, coyote was at the edge of our busy hustle and bustle.

Hustle and bustle at a farmer's market in Marin County, CA

Hustle and bustle at a farmer's market in Marin County, CA

Like a thin veil separating these two worlds, one dreamlike, the other hard edged and fast paced, coyote stood at the threshold, luring us, enticing us.  The contrast of the calm of the cemetery, isolated on the outskirts of town; the interface between open space and homes, reminded me of where I had just come from in Wyoming.  I too had come from the dreamtime of Sunlight Basin and Yellowstone, where the real world has been marginalized to a protected park.  Here in the city, people say to me:  ‘Welcome back to the real world”.  What is the real ‘real’ anyways?

The Moose

My neighbor just had his 85th birthday.  He’s lived in the Valley all his life.  His father homesteaded here back in the early 1900’s.  I love to hang out with him, help with his two horses, and pick his brain for stories.  He knows this country like I might know all the shortcuts in my old hometown neighborhood.  Except his neighborhood is vast, wild, without roads or trails.

I’ve learned over time that, although his memory for details and names is way better than mine, the time periods and placements of events need to be sorted out.  He might tell a tale like it was last week, until I question him more and find out the events took place in the 30’s.  It took me a while to figure out that most of his Yellowstone stories were from the 50’s (when he worked there) rather than just 10 or 20 years ago.

I’d been seeing quite a few moose lately.  One came into my yard the other day, a resident who likes to hang in the marshy willows nearby.  Moose numbers for Wyoming are really low, only 44% of objective, according to a just published Game and Fish report.  I told this to JB and that got him storytelling.

Moose walking down my road at dusk

Moose walking down my road at dusk

Moose in nearby meadow

Moose in nearby meadow

Young bull moose in front yard

Young bull moose in front yard

“It was a snowy winter and I was at the homestead.  I’d feed the cows at the bottom of the pasture near the trees to get them walking a bit.  That’s good for them you know, especially for the pregnant ones.  One day I was down in the timber when I saw a cow moose and three calves.  There were stuck there in a hole and couldn’t get out, the drifts were so bad.  They were real skinny and starving down there.  When the momma saw me, her hair stood on end.”

“So I brought a few bales of hay on my sleigh over.  Every day I’d come to check on them and the cow moose got used to me.  I’d bring them hay, but each day I’d place it a little bit further out of the timber towards the pasture.  Slowly, they came out.  They spent that entire winter in the pasture with my cows.”

Clarks fork drainage near Russell Creek.

Clarks fork drainage near Russell Creek.

“Another time I was way up Dead Indian, you know where the willows are up there?”

I nodded.  I’d seen moose tracks there.  Its about 3 miles or more up the trail.

“I was up there and saw a bull moose.  He’d been shot and was bleeding from the side.  Some hunter shot him but the moose had run off.  He was in real bad shape and the snows were getting deep.  I hauled 20 bales of hay up to him.  I didn’t put it all in one place.  I put it around in the timber where he was at.  Then I left him for the winter.  Come early spring, I went back to check on him.  You know what I found?  He had a friend.  Another bull had come in there and all that hay was gone.  That bull was all healed up and getting around fine now.  I don’t really know how he survived that wound, cause I think he was bleeding on both sides. There had been blood around.  But he made it.”

Dead Indian Creek

Dead Indian Creek

To begin to get a feeling for what’s going on with moose numbers in Wyoming, this is an excellent thesis by Scott Becker.

A busy spring rolls in

It seems to be busy around here.  There’s a nesting pair of bluebirds in a box right outside my front door.  I was sure they were going to leave last week because of all the noise around here.  I needed to work on my driveway because, surprise, this winter I couldn’t get in.  I was able to plough it initially, but everytime there was a melt, the ruts just got deeper and deeper.  Pretty soon I was parking down the road at my neighbors for the last few months. There’s been some pretty big equipment happening all week, taking giant scopes of limestone and rock from my personal ‘quarry’–my hill–and laying it all along the road.

But this morning a head popped out and there was madame Bluebird.  She must be sitting on her eggs now, because she hasn’t moved.  I’ll be leaving for a few weeks on Monday for California and then the Greater Yellowstone Coalition Annual Meeting in Jackson, so she’ll have some nice peace and quiet.

When I snagged the photo, I didn't see the butterfly till I printed it.

When I snagged the photo, I didn't see the butterfly till I printed it.

Several hawks came through while I was watering today.  A pair of red tails soared by.  I know there’s a nesting pair down the road by the bridge so they might be the ones.  An unidentified buteo–two toned black underneath which I think was a Merlin–visited.  And a kestrel snagged a ground squirrel (or something the equivalent in its mouth) while I watched from the front yard.

Ahh, motherhood

Ahh, motherhood

So cute!

So cute!

A moose popped in this afternoon.  I was working in the shed sanding a table when Koda started barking.  It was the kind of bark you just know its not a person.  I keep Koda on a shock collar usually.  That’s in case a wolf or bear comes along.  But around the house he’s usually off-shock.  Luckily, he responded nicely, came when called, laid down and stopped barking.  The moose seemed pretty unperturbed.  A barking dog is like an annoyance when she’s used to dealing with wolves.  She was alone and I know there’s a pregnant cow down the road in the swampy area.  But this lady was lean. She ambled up from the trees, paused to consider the barbed wire fence, jumped it awkwardly, then slowly made her way up the hillside through the meadow.

Moose eating in marsh nearby

Moose eating in marsh nearby

Yesterday I saw some incredible rams just up the road.  I was hiking up a steep ridge when two white ‘rocks’ appeared on the ridge below.  W__ spotted them.  They were the rumps of two rams with 3/4 curl horns.  I rarely expect to see sheep up here in the summer.  A lot of them head higher up, towards Yellowstone and the Absarokas.  Maybe these guys were just hanging around because of all the snow there still.

The flies are out, the ticks are here, the mosquitos are biting, and the wildflowers are changing everyday.  Spring is here and it is only for a moment. Soon summer will be in full bloom, the rivers will recede enough to be crossable, and the elk will all disappear for higher grounds.

I’ll be back in two weeks and everything will be different.  I’ll certainly be missing all the action.  But I’ll be posting when I can from California and I intend to fully report on the GYC meeting in Jackson.

Some spring shots:

Calypso bulbosa

Calypso bulbosa

Swainson Hawk hunting in irrigated cattle field down the road

Swainson Hawk hunting in irrigated cattle field down the road

Draba oligosperma...Whitlowgrass

Draba oligosperma...Whitlowgrass

Alpine Forget-me-not, Eritrichum nanum

Alpine Forget-me-not, Eritrichum nanum

A Glorious spring day.  Koda and I hike up Elk Creek Meadows.

A Glorious spring day. Koda and I hike up Elk Creek Meadows.

Call of the Wilds

I live in a wild place.  In winter there are only a handful of residents.  The wolves howl.  The elk find their way through the snows.  The grizzlies sleep.  In spring the mountains wake and thaw.  On weekends this valley is a favorite spot for locals from Billings and Cody.  ATV’s and RV’s roll in and find their favorite campsites.  Yet the mountains here are vast, the wilderness seems endless.  Its rare to see another person on any given trail.

This country is big enough for all who love it and steward it.

This country is big enough for all who love it and steward it.

This has been my first winter here.  I’d been here almost every month of the year, but only for weeks or a few months at a time.  Living here, knowing that these mountains are what I now call home, I find my rhythms slowly changing.  Life seems to be moving fast when I return to an area I’d just been last week and the snows have melted.  Or how did I miss the day when the rivers suddenly turned muddy and swollen?  Just two weeks ago I drove up that draw, but now its flooded.  Changes seems to be happening at breakneck speed.  What looks static to a visitor is a constantly changing kaleidoscope, an ebb and flow of interactions too great and wonderful to take in all at once.

Swamp Lake as the snows are melting

Swamp Lake as the snows are melting

Aspens starting to bud out.

Aspens starting to bud out.

Ribes blooming just the other day

Ribes blooming just the other day

Alpine columbine just blooming today

Alpine columbine just blooming today

I walk the woods and look for wildlife runs and markings, new smells or droppings, nests or homes, what was eaten today and what was killed.  At first I walked or hiked and noticed a few things here or there.  But now I find it difficult to be aware on all the levels I want to be.  There is the forest floor and its sign–scat, droppings, scratchings.  The treetops are where birds and small mammals also live so don’t forget to check up there as well.  The relics and evidence of the past such as buffalo bones or Native American sign.  If you only look for animal sign such as tracks or scat, you miss the wildlife presently around you.

Sandhill Cranes

Sandhill Cranes

Better watch for bears, and be careful with your dog as there are wolves around.  The forest and the meadows are alive.

Could these be bison (or cow) found in buried in a depression like a wallow.

Could these be bison (or cow) found in buried in a depression like a wallow.

Simple beauty

Simple beauty

A new awareness has also begun to creep in.  It is an understanding of the nature of life and death, of a circle of existence.  This is not an intellectual notion.  Everyday I find bones and skulls, or fresh kills large and small.  Everybody has to eat and you either eat plants or meat or both.  Death is not wrapped up in a nice package in the frozen section, or shoved off to the edges of society.  It is here and everywhere.

My neighbor H__ who has a horse farm, told me a story about the first horse he had to put down.  He was afraid to do it himself and asked our 85-year-old neighbor, a native to the valley, if he would do the deed for him.  JB replied “Its your horse.  You have to do it.”

“He was right”, H__ told me.  This winter he put two horses down in the upper pasture.  The wolves and coyotes were on it within days.

Just as in life, there is beauty and ugliness in death.  I’ve watched the coyote I found this winter in his process of decay.  First the animals ate their fill, but a lot remained and the ground was still frozen and cold.  Now the beetles are finishing him off.  He is food for others, and there is a certain rightness and sadness in that.  There is also a fascination and a repulsion in watching the process.  Yet I find a skull of a winter kill bull elk with both its antlers, the skull already cleaned off and perfectly white, and it looks beautiful to me.

Found winter wolf kill.  Beautiful in death

Found winter wolf kill. Beautiful in death

Coyote skull and bobcat skull

Coyote skull and bobcat skull

Old trees that have died are regal in their appearance, and house insects and the birds that feed upon them.  The ground squirrels in the yard are amusing to watch, yet I admire the Swainson’s hawk that deftly swoops and catches them.

Burnt trees.  Beautiful in death

Burnt trees. Beautiful in death

A deeper ‘knowing’ that I too am part of this whole process seeps into my core.  It may seem ugly or cruel to some, but it is only economical and the way things must be.  More than stark, there is a dreamlike quality to it all.  The animals are not bothered.  They have been born into this acceptance.

I walk with Koda.  He is always alert, on the ready, yet happy and relaxed.  His tension comes from awareness, instinct to check for danger, or to check for the fun of a chase with a squirrel.  I am learning here, in this complete ecosystem, with top predators just like me here, that I must walk and be aware, relaxed, and alert.  That life and death walk side-by-side always, only here they are in evidence.  That there are more levels to this dreamtime than I am yet aware, and that the natural world supplies a plethora of synchronicity and sign, if only one can take the time to deepen, relax, and learn to notice.

Beartooth Highway Memorial Day 2009

Took a ride on the Wyoming side of the Beartooth highway yesterday.  Amazingly, with all this snow, its open now.  I live about 20 minutes from the highway, and only drove up to Long Lake.  Its like winter all over again up there, while its fast becoming a distant memory down here at 7500′.  In places, water was flowing fast across the highway.  Large chunks of snow had fallen and blocked a few places, but the crew seemed to clear them pretty fast.  Here are a few photos taken yesterday of the highway Charles Kuralt called the most beautiful highway in America.  If you go, bring your skis.